Still Got It: Roebling Tea Room

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In this city, restaurants come and go faster than you can say "sustainable locavore burger." And even though there are great new additions to the culinary landscape popping up every week, you've gotta give kudos to anyone who can stick it out for over a year. With that in mind, we bring you Still Got It, our tribute to establishments that continue to serve mouthwatering meals long after the buzz has faded—or if the lingering hype is still justified.

We foolishly shunned Roebling Tea Room for far too long because who cares about tea? Our loss. The tea in the title should not be misinterpreted as the main focus of this relaxed Williamsburg restaurant. Open daily for lunch and dinner, and brunch on the weekends, RTR offers a well-balanced array of refined comfort food options. The menu, which changes regularly and bears the dictum "Our Meat Is On A Program," recently featured an exceptional appetizer of fried sardines with marinated crimini mushrooms and green goddess (a salad dressing). Next time that's offered, get it and let your companions know that you will be unwilling to share.

Also appetizing and also unfortunately not on the current menu: Escabeche, a Mediterranean poached fish made here with Hake, American caviar, fried leeks, and pickled jalepeno ($12)—try to get all of the ingredients together in one bite, they play off of each other exquisitely. For entrees, we recommend the Stone Bass, served with whipped feta, tandoori spices, turnips, and baby bok choy ($18); or the Pappardelle with fresh sardines, new potatoes, mixed olives, and tomatoes ($16). It's said they're also making a mean Hangar Steak with golden raisins soaked in cognac, preserved black peppercorns, and aligote potatoes ($23).

As for beverages, the bar makes a fine Manhattan, and the house wine is $8 and very good. They've also got Anchor Steam on tap for $5, which isn't very common in this town. You can peruse their full dinner, lunch, brunch and drink menu on the Roebling Tea Room website.