Leave The Gun, Take The Donnoli

Nov. 18, 2014, 4:50 p.m.

The donnoli (connoli+donut) showed up quietly, and as the wan afternoon sun has already begun to fade, soon to deposit us into icy, wind-whipped night, we were glad.

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It's the year 2014 and we've run of out of original ideas. New neighborhoods are old neighborhoods combined into cacophonous portmanteaus (Parkwanus, more like Barfwanus, amirite?) and, of course, pastries. It started with the cronut, but it's since become the bruffin and then the doussaint. It's absurd; but it's also tasty.

We are never upset when a new pastry, inane moniker or not, lands in our offices. The donnoli (connoli+donut) showed up quietly, and as the wan afternoon sun had already begun to fade, soon to deposit us into icy, wind-whipped night, we were glad.

The donnoli is available for $4 at the midtown location of Alidoro, which is $1 more than their plain croissant and 50 cents more than their Nutella croissant. The donut portion, dusted generously with powdered sugar, tastes like an undercooked biscuit—a pejorative in the eyes of my more discriminating colleagues, but perfectly appealing to me. The filling is ricotta cheese and cream, which has the effect of being sweet without becoming a 7-Eleven situation. I want to squeeze it on to everything.

The donnoli is available at the shop's Midtown and SoHo locations, though the SoHo outpost is not open for breakfast. It probably doesn't travel well.