It's Back To The Future With Jersey City's New Automat Kitchen

Long ago, automats were considered as quintessential as our bodegas and slice joints are today. There were more than 50 automats scattered around town during their heyday in the middle of the 20th century, the stacks of windowed cubby holes devouring nickels by the score and spitting out slices of pie, or cups of hot coffee, or plates of bacon and eggs. By the time I ate at one in the late 1970s, the pseudo-retro Horn and Hardart near Grand Central, the format, and food, were way past their prime.

Obviously the core appeal of fast-casual dining remains as strong as ever, and so every now and then someone trots out a new version of this old workhorse--the short-lived, luridly-lit Bamn! on St. Marks, for example; and slated for March, the sleek Brooklyn Dumpling Shop, also in the East Village. But before the latter could kick off its operation, over in Jersey City another outfit beat them to the slowly-opening-mechanical-door punch, a contactless comfort food spot called Automat Kitchen.

Last weekend I hopped on the PATH to check out this latest automat iteration, which sits at the entranceway to a passageway to the Newport Mall on a road lined with generic office parks. It's not the most promising dining location, to be sure, but I wasn't about to head home hungry, so into the mall we went.

The front room is where the automat magic happens, via a bank of vertical compartments with a kind of microwave vibe and doors that double as LCD screens, imparting messages like "Enjoy Your Food! Please don't interfere with the box closing." You can preorder remotely on your phone, or step up to one of the touchscreen kiosks on site. Screens above the boxes keep you posted on the status of your order, and when it's ready you'll receive a text with a code that opens your box.

Everything is made to order--the kitchen crew toils away right behind the wall of boxes, and they place your packed-up meal into a compartment from their side of things--so don't expect your food to be delivered with the speed of a vending machine. Really, the place functions more like a counter-service restaurant than a true automat, but instead of talking to people, you're tapping on various screens.

The Automat Kitchen menu, developed by consulting chef Quirino Silva from Austin, is filled with crowd-pleasers like Breakfast Tacos, Chicken Parm Sandwiches, Mac and Cheese, Sundae Waffles. Based on a generous feast last Saturday afternoon, it's all a lot better than you might expect, given the gimmicky setup. Chef Silva clearly knows how to cook, and he's not afraid of seasoning his food. And the leftovers held up even after a long ride home and a clumsy reheating the next day.

Take the Frito Pie Burrito, a gloppy monster stuffed with smoked brisket, rice and beans, cheese, and pico de gallo. Crushed up Fritos hiding inside and sprinkled on top add flavor and crunch, the flour tortilla does its job well, and the whole thing is plump and heavy enough to feed two. I really enjoyed eating this.

The Pastrami Reuben is more of an open-faced flatbread situation than a traditional sandwich, but again, it was even better than I hoped. The meat is fatty and peppery, the Swiss cheese gooey and sharp, and there's plenty of sauerkraut above and grainy mustard below to further enliven the party. Definitely a satisfying sandwich.

There are a few more refined-looking dishes available as well, including a Roasted Chicken Dinner, a Massaman Curry Pot Roast, and a nicely-executed Atlantic Salmon filet (skin intact, thankfully) served with broccoli and a mound of chewy grains. Our side dish of Spice Roasted Cauliflower, redolent with turmeric and garam masala, was also a success.

For dessert you can get an Ice Cream Float, a tray of Pull Apart Cinnamon Beignets, or a decent, butterscotchy Rocky Road Cookie. Boylan's soda, coffee (including cold brew), and various smoothies provide liquid refreshment.

Indoor dining is allowed in New Jersey, which is a bit of an alarming sight for us out-of-towners, but there are also a few tables outside in the front plaza area. Even better, the waterfront is just a couple of blocks away, and there are lots of benches over there offering dramatic skyline views.

Automat Kitchen is located at 525 Washington Boulevard in Jersey City, and is currently open on weekdays from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and on Saturdays from 10:00 a.m.2 to 5:00 p.m. Closed Sunday (201-918-5131; automatkitchen.com)