Greenpoint's Manhattan Inn Is Incredibly Inviting

Last week we noted the opening of a charming new restaurant/cocktail lounge/jazz bar called The Manhattan Inn in Greenpoint (located on Manhattan between Bedford and Nassau); but as you can see this place is so good looking it merits its own feature. This weekend we were actually lured there twice; the first visit was occasioned by our desire to wait out the Saturday afternoon rain and read over cocktails. The back room was uniquely suited for our purposes, and the Manhattan's Manhattan ($9) was as big and inviting as a heated private lap pool. (The classic specialty cocktail menu is from James Endicott, formerly of Per Se and Allen & Delancey, and there is also wine and craft beer on tap.)

We returned for brunch on Sunday and sat again in the sun-drenched back room, where a piano player tickled the ivories on a white grand. The Belgian waffle with pumpkin compote and real maple syrup ($11) struck the perfect balance between fluffy and crisp, and the oatmeal with candied walnuts ($6) was thick and hearty. The meat-centric dinner menu from former Bouley chef Justin Farmer emphasizes seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients, with other options including Cottage Pie (grass-fed beef, vegetables, and garlic mashers), a braised pork belly & kimchi pressed sandwich, as well as a seasonal vegan stew.

The decor is the work of hOmE, a collaborative effort of Evan and Oliver Haslegrave, who redesigned the most current incarnation of Glasslands Gallery. The space has been built almost entirely of recycled lumber and materials from Build It Green, and includes numerous creative nuances, such as repurposed doorknobs as tap handles, and school desks as dining tables. In January, Manhattan Inn will expand into an adjacent space and open for breakfast and lunch, with house-made pastries and a full menu of espresso beverages.

Right now the hours are 4 p.m. to 4 a.m. on weekdays, with dinner service from 6 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Monday through Thursday, extending to 2:30 a.m. on Friday and Saturdays, plus Saturday/Sunday brunch starting at 11 a.m. 632 Manhattan Avenue; (718) 383-0885. Peruse the dinner menu below.

Small Plates

Baguette with Apple Butter $4
Fried Chicken Wings with Chili Apple Glaze $5
Potato Leek Gratin $6
Chilled Tofu with Black Sesame Seeds and Dried Swordfish $7
Red Borscht with Braised Brisket, Dill, and Creme Fraiche $8
Chicken Liver Pate with Cornichons, Dandelion Gree Coulius, and Baguette $9

Mains

Braised Pork Belly & Kimchi Pressed Sandwich $13
Grilled Eggplant, Tallegio, and Frisee Pressed Sandwich $13
Seasonal Vegetable Stew with Barley and Wild Mushrooms $12
Cottage Pie with Grass-fed Beef, Vegetables, and Garlic Mashers $15

Dessert

Crepe with Rocotta, Honey, and Supremed Clementines $7
Chocolate Chile Bread Pudding with Pear Coulis $7