Greenpoint Has A Charming New Cafe Specializing In Pierogies And Red Borscht

Pierogies are not exactly a rare commodity in Greenpoint, but that hasn't diminished the neighborhood's enthusiasm for Pierosek, a pretty little cafe that opened on Manhattan Avenue about two weeks ago. That may also have something to do with the fact that these particular pierogies come courtesy of two of Poland's most renowned dumpling makers, Marzena Gęsiarz and Zofia Kuśmierska, who hail from a similarly named restaurant Pierozeq in the Medieval city of Częstochowa. And the affable owners of Pierosek, Alexandra Siwiec and Radek Kucharski, have deep ties to Greenpoint; they both also own the nearby coffee shop Early, Siwiec grew up down the block, and her dad has run a construction company here for 25 years.

Little wonder then that last weekend the cheery front dining room of Pierosek was full of locals tucking into platters of pierogies and bowls of borscht, which (along with croquettes) are basically the only things on the menu. The dumplings come in seven varieties, four savory, three sweet, always boiled, and at a press lunch on Saturday I ate them all. Boiling (as opposed to frying) keeps the shells slick and soft, though the construction is strong enough to keep the generously-stuffed fillings where they belong.

There's nothing gimmicky going on here. Savory pierogies come in familiar flavors such as "Meat" (shredded pork, and a little dry), Sauerkraut and Mushroom (tangy and delicious), Ruskie (potato and cheese), and Spinach (fluffy and flavorful). Everything is topped with sautéed onions and come with a crock of both regular and garlicky sour cream. And you'll also want to get a mixed plate of the sweeter pierogies to share: the Blueberry, the Strawberry, and the Cheese are all first-rate, drizzled with butter and a sweet cream for dipping.

Really though, the best thing at Pierosek might be the Red Borscht, which has the consistency of a thick broth, is somehow made only from beets and seasonings (and garlic), and is wonderfully rich, complex, and soul-satisfying. No need for a spoon; just lift the bowl by the handles and drink deeply. I ordered my borscht with a Sauerkraut and Mushroom Croquette, a fat, deep-fried tube stuffed with that terrific pickled cabbage and earthy mushroom mixture. This was a perfect pairing, and costs only $10 as a combo.

Pierosek was designed by Kucharsk and it's an immediately appealing space, with clean lines, exposed brick, warm lighting, white marble, muted tones, and lots of plants. The front and back dining areas, which seat about 25 total, are divided by a small but dramatically vertical bar and coffee station. There's a semi-open kitchen (you can peer in one window), the blue-and-white patterned dishware is lovely, and the back patio might get a heated tent this winter, and will definitely be open next spring.

The bar menu includes seven different Polish vodkas, sold by the shot.

Pierozek is located at 592 Manhattan Avenue, between Nassau and Driggs Avenues, and is currently open on Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., with expanded hours coming soon (718-576-3866; pierozekbrooklyn.com)