Fun With Flan At Midtown's Swanky New Restaurant Beautique
April 14, 2014, 1:53 p.m.
Versions of the eggy cake with crab and bone marrow anchor a lighter menu of seasonally minded dishes.
In the age of the restaurant "snack" section, it's become a pleasure in and of itself to open a menu and find a straightforward selection of appetizers, entrees and desserts. Such is the case at Beautique—a Central Park South-area newcomer from alums of Rose Bar and Le Cirque—with a streamlined menu of seasonally minded dishes served in a stately setting by Elie Tahari-clad servers. There's also Jean Paul Gaultier on the bar stools, a James Beard-nominated mixologist behind the pine and a former Gordon Ramsay pastry chef whipping up sweets in the kitchen.
Chef Craig Hopson employs some common ingredients in unexpected ways, especially when it comes to the egg cake known as flan. The chef offers an appetizer version of Crab Flan ($18) with crisp cubes of pork belly and malt caramel; then a more decadent version with the Grass Fed Beef entree ($39), served with bone marrow flan, red onion toast and a ramp jus. Also playful, the Mixed Grilled of Lamb, Five Ways ($38), served with olive, mint and caper relish and roasted tomatoes.
It's not all gut-busting indulgence, though, like the Spring Pea Soup ($14) with comte cheese dumplings and mint; Spaghetti Alla Limone ($19) with salmon caviar and smoked salmon belly and a Roasted Carrot Salad ($16) seasoned with harissa and served with kale, lentils and sheep's milk yogurt. Larger dishes aren't weighty either, like the Confit King Salmon ($31) swimming in a buttermilk and poppyseed vinaigrette with potato, pickles and dill; and Chicken Breast ($29) flavored with lemon, saffron and mint, served with steamed eggplant and saffron-infused shallots.
The bar remains open until 2 a.m. with a small menu of bar snacks for the late-night set. The wine list boasts over 200 bottles, mainly from the French region of Burgundy with some vintages from Argentina and beyond as well. Cocktails from Charlotte Voisey include The Rakel, a gin and orgeat drink mixed with pinapple, orange flower water and egg whites.
8 West 58th Street, 212-753-1200; beatiquedining.com
