Camera in the Kitchen: Frankies Spuntino
April 27, 2006, 1:41 p.m.
When a restaurant like Frankies 457 in Carroll Gardens decides to
When a restaurant like Frankies 457 in Carroll Gardens decides to open another outpost, it's like bringing the world its younger, addictive, potentially more endearing younger brother. Welcome Frankies 17. A 26-seat rustic sliver at 17 Clinton Street, the new Frankies-- the little Frankies--boasts an identical menu cooked up by the Franks: Frank Castronovo (formerly of Bouley and Bocuse) and Frank Falcinelli (formerly of Moomba).
Spuntino, snack in Italian, is an apt word to cover the menu, comprised of small plates and entrees perfect for sharing along with one of the over 50 reds, whites, and sparkling wines. The house red goes for $6 a glass, $12 a carafe, and there's a fine selection of bottles under $40.
The menu boasts daily specials, all under $18, like Roast Loin of Pork with Broccoli Rabe and Pine Nut Polenta, and the savory-sweet Gothamist pick: Squash and Yam Ravioli with Sage & Chestnut in a Parmesan Broth, which melds almost dessert-like homemade raviolis with a light, yet buttery broth.
Eight salads showcase the organic ingredients used in all of Frankies dishes; Gothamist dove into the refreshing Roasted Beet and Avocado Salad with Balsamic Vinegar, a medley of savory root vegetable and creamy avocado, cut into identically-sized portions and lightly tossed in balsamic. Individual vegetable antipasti, like roasted sweet potatoes, hot pine nut polenta, or roasted brussel sprouts come at $4-5 a serving for mix n' match. Crimini Mushroom & Truffle Oil crostini, marinated olives, and a selection of cured meats can also be thrown on the plate. Or, you can opt as Gothamist did for Frankies' Antipasto, and let the chef make his pick of 2 each of the meats, cheese, veggies, and olives, all for $12.
Also known for their sandiwiches, served on fresh Sullivan Street Bakery rosemary foccacia as well as an allstar selection of formaggi offered on plates either solo, by threes, or by fives, Frankies 17 proves that bigger is surely not just better and limited space doesn't really limit anything.
With no reservations, there was a 20 minute wait even when Gothamist stopped by on a late, rainy Tuesday night,. We recommend dropping in early or bringing good company to chat whlie you wait. But, trust us, the wait is worth every bit of perfectly aged pecorino romano. Really.
Frankies 17 is located at 17 Clinton Street and open 6 p.m. - 12 a.m. for dinner, 7 days a week. 212-253-2303. No reservations accepted. Credit cards welcome.