A Taste of . . . Chinatown Brasserie

Since opening day, Joe Ng's dumplings have been proclaimed by critics to be the highlight of the Chinatown Brasserie menu. Since opening, the original Chef, Tyson Wong Ophaso, has left, elevating Joe's position in the kitchen. Thankfully, the quality of the dumplings has remained intact through the change. Although you can't expect Chinatown prices (each order of dim sum ranges from $6 to $15 at lunchtime, a buck or two more at dinner), the quality is worth the extra cash. Fresh, high quality ingredients, like pefectly tender shrimp and springy green pea shoots are formed into gorgeous dumplings and presented with a degree of artistry, which fits in nicely with the sleek, carefully crafted surroundings. Formerly the home of Time Cafe/Fez, it's hard to believe that even with a reported makeover budget of $6 million, that Chinatown Brasserie is the same space at all. Fez never had a koi pond, from what we recall.

Chinatown Brasserie
380 Lafayette Street at Great Jones Street
212-533-7000